Category Archives: Permaculture

Permaculture is a system of agricultural and social design principles centered around simulating or directly utilizing the patterns and features observed in natural ecosystems.

Comfrey

Comfrey is one of my all time favorite herbs, ever. It’s uses are numerous. We use this plant for permaculture, animal feed and herbal healing. Comfrey is a vigorous plant, it grows easily in all types of soil, and while it doesn’t’ spread, the clump gets bigger and bigger each year and it is easily divided and grows quickly from it’s woody roots.  I will go over the various ways we use comfrey on the farm.

Comfrey is widely used in permaculture landscapes.  Comfrey is a bio-accumulator, it has very long deep roots, they can grow to a depth of ten feet.  They collect minerals from deep in the earth, bringing them up into their leaves where they can be used by other plants, animals, microbes and us. Comfrey leaves have calcium, potassium, phosphorus, iorn, magnesium and iodine, to name just a few.

Comfrey is the only land plant that takes vitamin B12 from the soil. The entire plant is a good source of vegetable protein, and the green leaves contain vitamins A, C, E, and several B vitamins, including choline, the fat-emulsifying vitamin that helps fight cholesterol deposits. Other ingredients are folic acid, the anti-anemia vitamin, and some B12, which controls the deadly pernicious anemia. (www.herballegacy.com/ThesisChemical.html).

We grow comfrey in one big patch, those are what I consider my stock plants, and I harvest from them in all but the coldest months. We use the leaves as green compost when creating dead-fall swales and huglekulturs.  We also add the leave to our compost piles, they are great for activating the composting process and adding all those wonderful minerals to the compost.  I also take small roots from these plants and plant comfrey in our orchard meadow and other various places on the farm.  Several times throughout the growing season we slash back the plant letting the leaves fall around, mulching and composting in place, thus creating bio-mass and top soil.

 

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Because of the incredible nutrition captured in the leaves of the comfrey plant we use them as animal fodder. a few leaves a week are fed to our rabbits, along with their other forage.  We will throw leaves to the chickens, along with the comfrey they nibble on when free ranging our in the meadow.  When the goats come this spring, they too will get comfrey.
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We also use comfrey medicinally.  There is some debate on its use. The root of the wild comfrey plant has been found to contain pyrrolizidine alkaloids, which can cause liver damage if ingested in large amounts.

 In the 1980s there was a research paper that reported liver damage in laboratory animals that had varying doses of these alkaloids injected into them intravenously. This came as shock to the Herbalist community because comfrey has long been regarded as one of the safest herbs…..
…Naturally, experts rushed to the defense of comfrey. One expert pointed out that the rats had been fed the equivalent of twenty-four times their body weight in comfrey leaves. (Green Pharmacy Barbara Griggs 305) Fred Fletcher Hyde argued forcefully that a plant is not only a physical dilution of its chemical constituents:

Teas, almonds, apples, pears, mustard radishes, and hops, to list only a few items, all contain substances which, if extracted, can be shown to be poisonous when tested under conditions similar to those used in the comfrey experiments. Must we then ignore our experience of the usefulness and wholesomeness of these foods because controlled trials and scientific evidence have not been published to establish their safety? (Green Pharmacy Barbara Griggs 305)

THE BENEFITS OF THE USE OF COMFREY
IN HERBAL PREPARATIONS

 

Perhaps it starts with confusion, aided by imprecise language. There are two species of comfrey: wild comfrey, Symphytum officinale, and cultivated comfrey, Symphytum uplandica x. (The “x” means it is a hybrid, a cross.)Wild comfrey (S. off.) is a small plant–up to a meter tall–with yellow flowers. Cultivated comfrey (S. uplandica x.) is a large plant–often surpassing two meters–with blue or purple flowers.

Everyone I know grows uplandica and that is what is sold in stores. But gardeners and herbal sellers alike usually mislabel it, causing no end of confusion.

To complicate the situation even more: the roots and the leaves of comfrey contain different constituents. Comfrey roots, like most perennial roots, contain poisons. Wild comfrey (officinale) leaves have some of the same poisons. But cultivated comfrey (uplandica) leaves don’t.

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Comfrey is generally reguarded as safe when used topically, and you can find commercially prepared topical application of comfrey. Comfrey, also known as “Knit-bone” is the great healer of all bones, muscles, connective tissues and skin.

Comfrey ointment heals wounds, cuts, burns, bruises, itches, and most skin problems. But it is most amazing when used to stop friction blisters from forming when you over use your hands or feet–walking, raking, rowing, hoeing, whatever. Even after the blister has swelled and filled with fluid–though better at the first twinge of pain–frequent applications of comfrey ointment will make it disappear as though it was never there. I apply the salve every five minutes for the first hour if I can, then 2-3 times an hour until I go to sleep.

Susun Weed

We use comfrey leaves (never roots) in salves, oils and poultices.  We do also choose to use comfrey internally, although it is illegal in the United States to sell commercially prepared comfrey for internal use.  We dry and chop our own comfrey and use it in herbal infusions.  One of my favorite ways to use comfrey for injured and painful joints is to prepare my herbal infusion, pour one quart of boiling water over one once by weight of dry comfrey, place a tight lid over the hot infusion and let sit for four hours or longer.  After at least four hours (I make mine at night and drink in the morning) strain through a cloth and drink at least a cup.  Then I take the strained leaves, place them in a pot and pour two cups cold water over them and bring it to a boil, let simmer for a few minutes, let cool, once it is cool make a poultice and cover the affected area and let sit as long as you can.  I have found this to be powerful herbal nutrition for strained and sprained joints, and use it often with my teenagers, who are runners and have injuries from time to time.  This year I will be making comfrey oil and salve, I would like to try and see if it is as effective as a poultice. Otherwise I will be spending a lot of time harvesting and drying comfrey leaves to make herbal infusions throughout the year.

 

Soil Types

soilSoil is defined as the top layer of Earth that allows the growth of plants.  All areas have a different soil horizon, and that profile will change over time, and can contain all of the different types of soil discussed in this article.  You can find out what your soil horizon is by digging a hole in the ground and then observer the cross sections in that hole.

Permaculture is not about changing one type of soil to another type of soil, but is about creating a top layer of soil, in your soil horizon, that plants will thrive in without having to change the underlying soil profile.  BUT, it is very important to know what the soil type is that you are building your permaculture soil on.  The underlying soil type will effect the temperature, water drainage, water retention, and the depth of your plants roots.  Typing your soil can be very complicated.  You will hear people classify soil by color, weight, and other measurements.  I hope that this article helps in clarifying some of the different types of soil, and terminology used.  Over time as you build your permaculture top layer, the underlying soil horizon will change.  It will take years, but eventually the changes  you make on the top layer will percolate down to the lower layers of the soil horizon.  That is a great side effect of doing permaculture gardening, but it is not the ultimate goal.

According to the Unified Soil Classification system (USCS) there are 5 different types of soils.  They include Gravel, Sand, Silt, Clay and Organic.  But I would like to add an additional type, and that is of Peat.  There are different grades of those types (poorly graded, well-graded, high plasticity, and low plasticity), but I will leave that for another post.

 

GRAVEL

Gravel is composed of rock fragments.  These fragments can be in a lot of different sizes.  It is pretty easy to identify gravel.  There is really not a good test to verify it is gravel besides the look and texture.  Because gravel has an inferior ability to retain moisture, nutrients, plant life in gravel soil is more sparse.  One advantage to a gravel soil is that it does have a very high water drainage rate, so it can be good for plants that need a dryer root system.  But it also does not retain nutrients.

 

SAND

Sand is more granular than gravel is, and is comprised of finely divided rock particles.  It is finer than gravel, but is coarser than silt.  Water drains rapidly, and also does not store nutrients for plants very efficiently.  The nutrients are carried away usually to quickly for plants to be able to use them.  You can test to see if your soil is sand by picking some slightly wet sand up.  If you try to create a ball with it, it will not form one, will leave particles on your hands, and crumbles easily in your fingers.

 

SILT

Silt is finer than sand, but not as fine as clay.  Silt is fine enough that it may also be found in suspension in bodies of water.  Silt is usually what makes rivers, and lakes have a dirty look to them.  When silt is wet, it will have a slippery feel, but when it dries, it will have a floury feel.  Silt drains poorly, and is usually cooler than sand.

 

CLAY

Clay has the smallest particles.  Clay can be easily molded in your fingers when wet, but when it dries, it becomes hard or brittle.  If clay is wet, it forms into balls easily if rolled in your fingers, and feels sticky.  Clay soil is cold, and takes time to warm, because it does hold moisture well.  Clay also stores nutrients well.  The downside is that when clay becomes dry, it becomes very hard and plants have a hard time growing in dry clay.

 

ORGANIC

Organic soil is soil that is primarily made up of matter composed of organic compounds.   It usually contains the remains of plans, animals, and their waste products.  Organic soil is usually created by the organic matter being broken down by bacterial or fungal action.  Soil holds water, and nutrients, giving plants the capacity for growth.

 

PEAT

Some people classify peat with organic soil, but I feel it is in a class all of its own, because of how unique it is in its formation.  It only forms in peatlands, bogs, and mires.  Peat if rolled will not form a ball.  It is spongy to touch and will release water if squeezed.  Peat can be added to the other types of soil to increase its ability to retain water and nutrients.

So, which soil is the best?

The answer to this question is all of them in a mix.  When you have some of all of the soil types mixed, you get what is called Loam.  usually the composition is 40%-40%-20% (sand-silt-clay).  The best type of soil to plant in is loam with the inclusion of organic matter.  This way you get the best combination of draining, nutrients and moisture.  But because it is almost impossible to create loam, permaculture may be the answer.  It is impractical to create loam on a large scale in most environments.  Loam is ideal for starting plants that then can be moved to your permaculture garden.

Loam is considered ideal for gardening and agricultural uses because it retains nutrients well and retains water while still allowing excess water to drain away. A soil dominated by one or two of the three particle size groups can behave like loam if it has a strong granular structure, promoted by a high content of organic matter. However, a soil that meets the textural definition of loam can lose its characteristic desirable qualities when it is compacted, depleted of organic matter, or has clay dispersed throughout its fine-earth fraction.

Loam is found in a majority of successful farms in regions around the world known for their fertile land.  Loam soil feels soft and crumbly and is easy to work over a wide range of moisture conditions. [Source]

Besides doing the ball test, as motioned in the different soil types, you can do jar test.  The jar test is explained at the end of this document: Soil Types and Testing.  It will help you find where your soil fits, if it is sandy, clay, or loam soil.

Below is a video that explains loam a little better, with details on how to mix it.

 

Other Factors

Soil color can also tell you a lot about the soil, dark soils have high organic matter, aeration, available nitrogen, fertility, and a low erosion factor.  Moderately dark soils have medium organic matter, erosion factor, aeration, available nitrogen and fertility.  Light soils have low organic matter, aeration, available nitrogen, fertility and a high erosion factor. [Source]

Soil Temperature also has a lot to do with growing plants, and the type of soil you have under your permaculture can effect that as well.  For the fastest growth, you want to try to keep your soil temperature at 65-70 degrees F.  Above or 85 degrees and below 40 degrees you have no growth, and little to no bacteria or fungi activity.

References:

Deep Mulch

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Over the last little while (like the last couple years) we have been collecting a lot of green waste.  Most of it isn’t ours, it is waste that we have brought in.  The thing is, it’s not waste to us, to us it is brown gold.  Beautiful, rich, nourishing brown gold that is going to help us make this desert blossom and feed families.
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In the past we have rented chippers and shredders to process the trees, branches and bushes that we acquire, but this year we decided to invest in our own chipper/shredder. It will pay for itself in about two weeks.
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The shredded leaves and branches will become deep mulch for our gardens, the idea is that we are mimicking the natural fertility found in the forests.  In the most naturally fertile areas of the world you will find deep layers of organic matter, leaves that have fallen, rotting wood, worms and manure from animals. At the farm we are attempting to recreate this fertility, the chipped leaves and branches are icing on the cake, or the top of the sheet mulching.
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The bed above has layers of paper and cardboard, straw and horse manure, we are now adding 6-8 inches of the shredded mulch on top. Along with adding so much organic matter and fertility, we are also preserving water, the water in this dry, dry land will stay put under all the layers of leaves.  The deep layer of mulch will also snuff out weeds and the weeds that do make it through will be easily pulled.  A big bonus around here.
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The bed above is finished and has been planted with our spring peas, all tucked in among the beautiful leaf and wood mulch.
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Garden Boxes

Last fall we were able to salvage part of an old wood fence.  We love reclaimed wood in all its shapes and sizes and conditions.  The old fence posts were too short to be used as fence posts again, but were perfect for making garden boxes. IMG_5982
In our main production garden we use wide rows and sheet mulching, but up in the yard area where I will be planting my flowers and medicinal herbs we are using garden boxes. The boxes will line the whole outer perimeter of the yard area.  Each box will have one type of either herb or flower, the large grouping will keep things neat and create a big visual impact.
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Each box is simply two 4×4 posts stacked on top of each other and bolted together.
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The bottom of each box is lined with several layers of card board to kill the weeds underneath.
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On top of the cardboard goes several inches of dry leaves that we gathered from families in town.
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My little helper, my star child, wetting down the leaves in the boxes.
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On top of the leaves, we layered several of inches of well composted manure.  In a few weeks, after planting, several inches of chipped wood will go in the boxes and all around, helping to conserve water and build fertility.
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Collecting Fertility

This weekend Dadzoo put out a call to the people of our city, asking if anyone had bags of leaves or branches that needed to go to the dump, it being the big spring cleaning time. He got two bites and we piled a few kids in the van and went into town to pick up bags of leaves. While we were stopping at homes to get the leaves we were planning on we also noticed other bags of leaves laying on the curbs. A quick knock at the doors and we acquired several more bags of leaves. So proud of ourselves we filled our 12 passenger van with bags of leaves, bags of free fertility!

IMG_5988  The leaves will be used to fill garden boxes, used in sheet mulching, composting and mulching around plants in the garden.  Instead of languishing in a landfill they will be used to build something good, to fulfill the measure of their creations. IMG_5989

The Not So Common Mallow

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One of my little Mallow plants emerging, you can see the stems from last years plants dead and brown around the new growth. She will be a magnificent plant come summertime.

 

Every spring, when the snow has melted, finds me on the hunt for the first wild greens of the season, Dandelion is usually one of the very first wild edibles, but even before the Dandelion comes the quiet Common Mallow. She lies close to the ground with her delicate little flowers and unique leaves, she is usually called a weed and is sprayed and pulled, but she is much more.  As kids we would eat the little flower buds and call them cheesies, little did we know the whole plant was edible and how incredibly nutritious our little “cheesies” were.

The common mallow is part of the large family of Malvaceae plants that include cotton, okra and hibiscus. It is an edible plant that has been used for medicinal care as well as food. The fruits are round and have cheese-like wedges which give the common mallow its nickname, cheese plant. Mallow stems are flexible and come from a central point, often lounging on the ground. This wild edible is used as herbal medicine in a variety of ways. It is an anti-inflammatory, diuretic, demulcent, emollient, laxative and an expectorant.

Distinguishing Features: Common mallow is a winter or summer annual or biennial, freely branching at the base, with a prostrate growth habit. It is a low growing weed, with a deep fleshy tap root. The seeds germinate through the summer and broken stems can also root. This plant has stems that originate from a deep tap root and are low spreading with branches that reach from a few centimeters to almost 60 centimeters long.

Flowers: The flowers are borne either singly or in clusters in the leaf axils blooming from June to late autumn. They have 5 petals and are white, pinkish or lilac flowers that measure on average, 1 to 1.5 cm across.

Leaves: Common mallow leaves are alternate, on long petioles, circular to kidney-shaped, toothed and shallowly 5-9 lobed, 2-6 cm wide. Short hairs present on upper and lower leaf surfaces, margins and petioles.

Height: This plant can grow anywhere from 10 to 60 cm in length.

Habitat: The common mallow likes to grow in lawns, gardens, roadsides, waste areas and cropland. It originated in Europe, Asia, and Northern Africa and is also in the Americas and Australia.

Edible parts: All parts of this plant are edible. The leaves can be added to a salad, the fruit can be a substitute for capers and the flowers can be tossed into a salad. When cooked, the leaves create a mucus very similar to okra and can be used as a thickener to soups and stews. The flavor of the leaves is mild. Dried leaves can be used for tea. Mallow roots release a thick mucus when boiled in water. The thick liquid that is created can be beaten to make a meringue-like substitute for egg whites. Common mallow leaves are rich in vitamins A and C as well as calcium, magnesium, potassium, iron and selenium.

Similar plants: Marshmallow.

http://www.ediblewildfood.com/mallow.aspx

I have never used Mallow medicinally, but this year I will, I have a large patch in my garden area and her little leaves are calling to me, I feel like there is a treasure waiting to be discovered in my little Mallow.

Mallow’s repute as a ‘cure-all’ medicine in the earlier times was owing to the fact that the herb, particularly its roots, encloses substantial quantity of mucilage (a glue-like substance secreted by some plants that are rich in protein and carbohydrates). Owing to the high presence of this jelly-like substance in mallow, rural herbal practitioners recommended the herb to heal digestive and urinary tract swellings and irritations (inflammations). However, mallow is more popular for its therapeutic qualities of relieving the mucous membranes lining the upper respiratory system, particularly when suffering from colds. In addition, the mucilage present in mallow also has the ability to control coughs set off by irritation or inflammation. Mallow is popular even today and is beneficial in healing several other ailments. For example, American Indians as well as modern herbal practitioners recommend using poultices (moist substances applied to injuries) prepared from the herb or its derivatives to alleviate pain or soreness from insect stings as well as swellings in the body.

http://www.herbs2000.com/herbs/herbs_mallow.htm

I am a voracious user of medicinal herbs, I have dozens sitting on my pantry shelves, and I make and drink herbal infusions (and make my family) daily.  It is exciting to me to find an herb, such as this, growing not only in my garden, but in abundance.  I take it as a sign, that she is to be harvested, used and loved.

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Cabbage

I usually don’t start seeds indoor, I find it tedious and I tend to forget them and I have a hard time finding a place with enough light.  I think is much easier to just direct sow in the garden and that is what I do for 90% of my plants.  There are a few exceptions, I do start tomatoes inside, because the need a longer growing season than we have, and cabbage.  Cabbage can actually be sown directly into the garden in the early spring, even before the last frost date and I have done it many times.  I have found over the years that the delicate seedling of the cabbage have a hard time withstanding the springtime winds that rip through here and I have much more success starting them indoors and protecting them until they are a bit stronger.

IMG_5899 These little guys are our summertime meal of cabbage sautéed in butter, this autumn’s baked cabbage with sausage and next winter’s sauerkraut.  We love our cabbage. IMG_5897 IMG_5896

Cabbage, a week later

Cabbage, a week later

Tomatoes a week later

Tomatoes a week later

Discarded Trees

When we moved to Quail Run Farm, we inherited a lot of problems as well as a lot of awesome opportunities.  One of those problems included the large amounts of trash, and random stuff left over the property and in the basement.  When we moved in, we had a 40 yard dumpster delivered and were able to fill it just from the trash in the basement and some of the trash around the yard.  And there is still a lot more to clean up.  One of the big problems we had were a bunch of trees that the previous owner had dumped on the property.  These trees are huge.  The diameter of a couple of them is over four feet.  So the question was raised what do we do with these huge trees? (you can see the kestrel box in the background)

IMG_5905IMG_5907We also burn wood for heat during the winter.  I had harvested all of the wood that I could with the equipment I had.  So we asked our wood guy (we buy our winter wood from him) if he would be willing to process the trees for us.  Well, he said yes, we came up with a price and the work started.

IMG_5906 IMG_5910 IMG_5912With the help of his numerous different sized chain saws and his hydraulic wood splitter.  John and Tommy were able to convert all of those trees to 12+ cords of wood.  We still have probably 5 cords more of trees to process. The wood will be great for us over the next couple of winters, and the cost to have them process it was more than half the cost to have them haul in wood for the winter.

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You can see the trees we still need to process in the right side of this picture.  That one big piece, that is sticking up, that is still unprocessed is a burl.  If it had not cracked, it would be worth close to 10K. But since it is cracked, it will be turned into BTUs instead of coffee tables.IMG_5918

Now we have to move it, stack it, and then protect it for the winter.  But when the cold months hit, and we have heat from these logs, we will be glad that we had trees that we could process and turn into BTUs.

Composting in Place

I have built and maintained compost pits and piles for many years now, when we bought our first home in 2002 one of the first things I did was mark out the garden plot and start a compost pile. I’ve long been a believer that we should use the things around us to their fullest capacity, while keeping in harmony with its order of creation. It never made sense to me to wrap kitchen scraps in plastic to rot in a landfill, or grind it up and send it down the drain. I feel that sending the leftovers of our fruits and vegetables back to the earth is honoring, and giving thanks to that which has been provided to us.

For a few years now I have flirted with the idea of composting in place.  The idea is that you don’t create a compost pile that needs to be watered and turned over and then eventually moved, you actually add the material to be composted in the place that you will eventually need it. I’ve never done it, I didn’t want to attract vermin, I worried that it would look horrible and that the organic matter wouldn’t break down fast enough. This year I decided I would give it a try. It’s a grand experiment. IMG_5900
I collected about a days worth of kitchen scraps, onions peels, banana peels, eggs shells and herbs used in infusions.  I didn’t add any meats or leftover cooked foods.
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For the first layer I lay down old newspapers and old homework papers, some egg cartons and left over bits of cardboard. A lot of organic farmers and backyard hobbyists won’t use certain types of paper or cardboard in their garden, saying that the glues and dyes are bad for the enviroment.  I don’t completely agree with that and I put all sorts of paper products in my garden and compost.  I think, with a few exceptions, that the earth is entirely capable of cleansing itself.  If you put concentrations of garbage and papers a central location, yes the ground will be poisoned, but that is not what I am doing, I am taking the bit that our family uses and facilitating the breakdown and cleansing.  They will be processed by microorganisms and turned into beneficial nutrients for plants.

After the layer of newspaper I spread out all the kitchen scraps, gross……
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And on top of that, straw, that will help absorb moisture and keep the mixture from getting too hot.
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Then on top of that, aged horse manure.
IMG_5904I got about two feet done in a fifty foot row….this might take a while….

Bareroots

Saturdays in the springtime are very busy on the farm.  Building a no-till, permaculture, working farm, along with raising eight children and Dadzoo working a fulltime job takes a lot of time and work. Springtime has us doing a lot of clean up and building garden beds in a mad rush to be finished before planting time.  This past Saturday was no exception, we had everyone outside, some clearing old weeds, others picking up accumulated garbage that had blown in, another cleaning out the chicken coop after the long winter, and Dadzoo hauling load after load of manure from our neighbor’s horse ranch.

Towards the end of the afternoon, the FedEx truck arrived with two big long boxes.  My Starks Brother’s order had arrived ahead of schedule.  I was so excited.  I love getting my plant and seed orders in.  We have ordered from Starks Brother’s before and have been happy with their bareroot trees and shrubs, so naturally when looking to add to the orchard we went with them.

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One of the things I like about Starks Brothers is that not only do they carry your typical varieties of fruit trees, but they also carry heirloom and speciality varieties.  From a permaculture stand point, using different  varieties is important, it creates biodiversity, and biodiversity is healthy.  Also on our farm we will be able to produce and sell varieties of apple that no one can get in grocery stores or the big produce stands. I also like the feeling that I am helping  keep a once thriving variety of tree or bush from extinction.

Current and Elderberry bushes. These will provide food and medicinals for us and birds, shade, and biomass.

Current and Elderberry bushes. These will provide food and medicinals for us and birds, shade, and biomass.

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Five different varieties of apple tree: Granny Smith, Candy Crisp, Smokehouse, Cinnamon Spice and Wine Crisp. All different flavors and colors.

IMG_5878So that evening we made a quick run to our local hardware store and picked up potting soil, I don’t like to plant my bareroots right in the ground, I have found I have better success planting them first in pot and babying them for a few months, then they will go to their forever homes.